A stripped screw is a big obstacle that can turn your simple DIY task in to a frustrating project. It makes it feel like something that should be straightforward, has now turned into a frustrating standstill.
You know that moment when the screwdriver slips, the head rounds out, and that screw just won’t move at all? Everybody’s been there! But look, don’t worry about it! Removing the stripped screw is usually not as hard as you may think, since there are many, clever ways to help you remove it without having to resort to drilling it out or ruining your workpiece.
In this article I will share the most useful ways to remove stripped screws, from simple hacks to specialized tools. You’ll have everything you need to successfully remove all of the stubborn fasteners and bring your project back to life.
Why Screws Get Stripped?
Before going through the solutions, let us first quickly understand why screws become stripped? having this knowledge can save you from future headaches
- Wrong Bit Size: An inappropriate screwdriver bit size for the screw head, is the most common reason for stripped screws. Not being the right size can prevent proper engagement, and cause slippage and rounding.
- Too much Torque, and not enough downward pressure: Applying Too much rotational force while not having enough downward pressure on the screw can cause the bit to cam out and create stripped heads.
- Worn Bits or Screws: Old, worn out screwdriver bits or screws made with soft metal can strip easily.
- Angle of Attack: If you don’t drive a screw properly with the correct angle, the bit may not seat correctly.
- Corrosion or Rust: Rust or corrosion can, effectively, hold the screw in place and make it incredibly difficult to turn.
- Over-Tightening: It might seem strange; however, over-tightening a screw can cause strains and significant pressure to occur on the head of the screw which makes it very easy to strip head when you are loosening it.
Toolkit for Stripped Screw Removal.
There are a number of various tools available, and you will want to have these tools on hand based on what method you choose, but here are some general tools to get you started:
- Screwdrivers, small, medium, large (different sizes and types): Flathead, Phillips, Torx, Square
- Pliers: Needle-nose, locking (Vise-Grip), slip-joint
- Rubber band or steel wool: For grip
- Drill and bits: For making pilot holes, or screw extractor use
- Screw extractors: an easy-out set is strongly recommended
- Rotary tool (Dremel) with cutting disc: to make slots
- Hammer: for impact driving, or gently tapping
- Penetrating oil (WD-40, PB Blaster, etc): for rusted screws
- Gloves and eye protection: you’ll need them!
Method 1: The Grip Enhancers (For Mildly Stripped Screws).
The following methods will work best when you have damaged a screw somewhat, allowing for more surface area to grip.
1. The Rubber Band Trick.
How It Works: The rubber band (or piece of thin rubber, as from an old bicycle inner tube,) fits in the stripped spaces and give you more friction for the screwdriver to grip.
Steps:
- Using a grip enhancer (screwdriver bit, rubber band) and place it flat over the stripped screw head.
- Insert your screwdriver (preferably a larger size that fits the remaining impression) tightly into the stripped screw head and push down really hard to engage the rubber band.
- Slowly turn the screw with rotational force to loosen a screw.
Best for: Phillips or square drive screws with minor stripping.
2. Steel Wool or Scouring Pad.
How it works: Like rubber band, steel wool and kitchen scouring pads have fine fibers that can bite into the stripped screw head; steel wool will provide some additional grip to your screwdriver.
Steps:
- Place a small wad of fine steel wool or piece of the synthetic scouring pad over the stripped screw head.
- Apply pressure with your screwdriver and turn.
Best for: Small to medium screws that have only minor stripping.
3. Aluminum Foil.
How it works: A piece of balled aluminum foil can flexibly fit over the stripped screw head and give you a bit more purchase.
Steps:
- Ball a small piece of aluminum foil tightly.
- Place on top of the stripped screw head, and press your screwdriver into it.
- Turn slowly.
Best for: Very small screws that have some minimal stripping.
Method 2: The Pushing Method (when grip enhancers won’t work).
If your stripped screw head is damaged enough, then you might need to apply a bit more Push or leverage
1. Impact Driver (Manual).
How it works: An impact driver takes the force of a hammer blow and transfers it through a bit to rotational force to help break free seized or stripped screws. It does this by having downward pressure to avoid cam-out.
Steps:
- Fit the correct bit on your manual impact driver.
- Put the tip firmly into your stripped screw head.
- Grip the body of the impact driver firmly and strike the back with a hammer. The impact will push down and twist at the same time.
- Repeat as necessary, rotating the manual driver as needed, until the screw breaks free.
Best for: Stubborn, larger screws, especially rusted or overtightened screws.
2. Pliers (When the Head is Exposed).
How it works: If the screw head is exposed slightly above the surface, using pliers to grip it and turn it is a good option.
Steps:
- Use locking pliers (Vise-Grips) for the best grip; and use needle-nose pliers for the smaller screws.
- Clamp the pliers firmly on the screw head.
- Twist the pliers to break free the screw.
Best for: Screws that are partially exposed, like those in hinges or even some brackets.
3. Chisel or Flathead Screwdriver and Hammer (for a new slot).
How it works: You can create a new slot in the screw head where you can use a flathead screwdriver.
Steps:
- Position the tip of the large flathead screwdriver or sharp chisel against the edge of the stripped screw head.
- Tilt the screwdriver/chisel slightly to create a cutting edge.
- Gently tap the end of the screwdriver/chisel with a hammer to create a new, deeper slot
- After creating a usable slot, you essentially have a flathead screw. Insert a flathead screwdriver and try to turn the screw. You can also try to tap the back of the flathead while also turning your screw.
Best for: Large screws that have enough head size/material to create a new slot. Just be mindful of damaging the material surrounding your stripped screw head.
Method 3: The Special Tools (if all else fails).
Alright now it’s time for the big guns for all those messed up stripped screws.
1. Screw Extractors (Easy-Outs).
How It Works: The screw extractor (easy-out method) claims to be the most effective method for wood screws stripped beyond deep. A screw extractor kit will come with drill bits and extractors.
You drill a small pilot hole, in the center of the stripped screw, then use a tapered reverse-threaded extractor that bites into the pilot hole (and jaws down on the screw) while you rotate the counter clockwise to extract it.
Steps:
- Pick Size: Pick the drill bit size, and extractor size, that matches the stripped screw size (check your extractor kit instructions).
- Drill Pilot Hole: Using your drill, place the drill bit straight on center of the stripped screw head, being careful not to drill too deep. Go slow and steady pressure and deep enough for the extractor to bite into.
- Insert Extractor: insert screw extractor into the pilot hole.
- Turn Counter-Clockwise Manually: Taking a tap wrench, socket wrench, or even a drill in reverse (at very slow speed), start to manually turn the extractor counter-clockwise. As you turn, the reverse threads will ‘bite’ into the stripped screw and it will start to back out.
Pros: Very effective on most types of stripped screws.
Cons: Needs a drill and a steady hand. Can easily break if not sized and used correctly.
2. Rotary (Dremel) Tool with a Cutting Disc.
How it works: You can cut a new deep slot into the head of the screw using a thin cutting disc. This basically converts a Phillips or Torx head into a flathead.
Steps:
- Attach a thin cutting disc at the attachment on your rotary tool.
- Carefully cut a straight deep slot across the diameter of the head of the stripped screw (wear eye protection)!
- After you have made the slot, insert a stout flathead screwdriver and turn counter-clockwise. If the last step didn’t get you enough leverage, you can try tapping the end of the screwdriver with a hammer while you turn the screw.
Best for: Larger screws, only, where you can make a deep, clean slot. Precision, and a steady hand are required.
Additional Tips and Tricks.
Can Super Glue Really Help (and How)?
This is a little bit of a different approach, but probably works quite well for less stubborn, smaller screws and especially in electronics or other delicate applications.
How to do it?
- Place a small drop of super glue (cyanoacrylate adhesive) onto the tip of the screwdriver or appropriate driver bit.
- Insert the glued tip into the stripped screw head carefully, being precise so the glue only touches the screw head and not to touch the surrounding material.
- Be sure to hold it (to the screw) firmly for 30 – 60 seconds (or whatever the directions for the super glue you are using call for) to let it bond.
- Once bonded together, quite gently and slowly apply counter-clockwise pressure (while also applying consistent down pressure) to try to turn it loose.
Why it works: Super glue forms a temporary strong bond between the screwdriver and give you a new custom-made driver to account for the stripped screw. The trick is to use very little glue so it doesn’t bond to the material around it.
What if the screw is Stuck by Rust or Corrosion?
There are situations where a screw is froze from something being stripped and that the screw is also rusted or corroded. A penetrating oil and some patience to allow the oil to penetrate is always worth a shot.
How to do it?
- Generously spray the screw head and down around the base of the screw with penetrating oil (WD-40, PB Blaster, similar, etc).
- Give it at least 15-30 minutes (overnight if there is severe corrosion).
- It takes time for the oil to wick into the threads of the screw and break down the rust.
- After soaking, you can now try one of the other approaches (pliers, rubber band, screw extractor).
Why it works: Penetrating oils are low viscosity liquids with high capillary action to penetrate tight spaces to dissolve or loosen rust and other corrosion in order to reduce friction on the screw.
Can heat and cold help a stripped screw?
In metal screws, in metal objects, heat expanded, cold contracts, and can be a good combination, especially if the screw is extremely tight or seized.
In these cases expanding the affected metal region slightly and contracting it after can solve both the problem and an additional expenditure of energy.
How To do it?
- Heat the screw head with a soldering iron, heat gun (low setting), or even a small torch (if you can safely).
- Warm the screw at this point for a short period of time (30 seconds to 1 minute).
- Immediately after heating the screw use cold to help contract the screw head (you could spray from a can of compressed air turned upside down until the propellant released, or a piece of ice).
- Temperature changes can be an issue to screws.
- A shift in temperature can cause the metal to expand and contract which can release the bond between a screw and the material it’s threaded into, making it easier to turn.
Why it works: metal expansion works like this: Hot metal expands, Cold metal contracts, and rapid temperature changes can create micro-fractures in whatever is holding the screw ( like rust or thread locker), which will make it easier to turn. Be cautious with this method particularly with any combustible materials or fragile parts.
When is drilling out the screw the last resort?
If you’ve tried every option available, and you’re certain that the screw is basically ruined, you should try drilling it out, which will be the last resort and will definitely be destructive.
This option will ruin the screw and possibly require you to re-tap the hole or step up your size screw larger than originally used.
How to do it?
- Pick a drill bit slightly smaller than the screw diameter (not counting it as the screw head).
- You will slowly but accurately drill straight down into the center of the stripped screw head.
- You’re aiming to drill out enough material in the screw head until it formally separates from the screw shaft, and allows you to free whatever component the screw was securing.
- Once you have separated the head, there is a good chance you will be able to remove the remaining screw shaft itself with pliers, and/or drill out the remaining pieces using larger bits (with patience) without ruining the threads of the hole itself.
Why it works: This method destroys the head of a stripped screw and in turn removes the screw itself to allow you to access or further work on the components secured by the stripped screw. It is destructive hence the last resort option.
Preventing Stripping Next Time.
- Always use the correct screw bit size.
- Be sure to apply adequate downward pressure while turning.
- Use quality screws and bits.
- Consider pre-drilling with a pilot hole (especially in hardwoods).
- If a power drill is used, start at low torque and increase up if necessary.
Conclusion
So a stripped screw doesn’t mean doom for your beeswax project! By understanding the causes and employing the correct methods, you too can remove even the stubbornest fasteners.
Start with the less invasive methods first, and then if they don’t work, move on to more specialized tools. With a little patience and the correct method, you’ll have that stripped screw out in no time and back on track with your project! Good luck!!