What Is Hacksaw?- Its Parts, Blades, Types, And Tips

What is a hacksaw?

A hacksaw is a type of saw recognized for its fine teeth, designed primarily for cutting through metal. If you’re working with wood, you’d likely use a bow saw instead, but when it comes to slicing through metal, the hacksaw is the tool of choice.

Most hacksaws you’ll encounter are hand-operated and feature a distinctive C-shaped frame, which is there to keep the blade held tightly in place.

One end of the frame typically has a handle often shaped like a pistol grip for comfort and better control. The frame itself is equipped with small pins at either end, making it easy to attach and replace the narrow, disposable blade as needed.

What’s handy about many hacksaws is that the frame can be adjusted to fit different blade sizes. There’s usually a screw or knob that you tighten to put the right amount of tension on the blade so it stays firm while you’re cutting.

Another feature worth noting is the versatility in how you can set the blade. The teeth can face toward or away from the handle, allowing you to cut either on the push or pull stroke. Most often, especially if you’re using the saw vertically with your material secured in a vise, the blade is set to cut as you push forward.

Hacksaws are mostly used for cutting through metal pipes, rods, brackets, and similar materials, but they’re also perfectly capable of slicing through plastic when the need arises.

The overall design is quite straightforward: a U-shaped frame, a handle at one end, and pins for securing the blade. Once the blade is in place, you use the tensioner nut or knob to stretch the frame a little, which tightens the blade and locks it securely.

Although you can set the blade to cut in either direction, it’s most common to have it cut on the push stroke, as that tends to give you the cleanest, most controlled result.

Here are the basic parts:

• D-handle
• Tensioner knob
• Blade tensioner
• Blade Pins
• Blade
• Frame

A typical hacksaw features a two-part adjustable frame paired with a pistol grip handle. Traditionally, hacksaws have been an essential tool for plumbers, particularly for cutting pipes, and for electricians who occasionally need to cut conduits.

The term “hacksaw” actually comes from the tool’s early days, when its cutting action tended to be rather rough and imprecise. Thanks to advancements in tool design and manufacturing, today’s hacksaws are capable of making much cleaner and more precise cuts.

While many professionals now rely on reciprocating saws for cutting metal components, the humble hacksaw remains a staple in their toolkits especially for situations that call for a bit more finesse and control.

Hacksaw Blade

A hacksaw is a specialized saw designed with a fine-toothed blade held tightly in a frame, primarily used for cutting through tougher materials like metal. If you look at a typical hand-held hacksaw, you’ll notice it’s basically a sturdy metal frame with a comfortable handle.

The blade itself is quite narrow and replaceable, attached at both ends with pins. To make sure the blade stays taut and doesn’t bend or wobble during use, there’s usually a screw or similar mechanism to apply the right amount of tension.

When it comes to sizes, most standard hacksaw blades are between 10 and 12 inches long (that’s roughly 250 to 300 mm if you prefer metric), but you can also find shorter versions down to 6 inches (about 150 mm).

Power hacksaws, on the other hand, might use much larger blades, and in some cases, they’ll use the same kind of blades as the manual versions, especially in smaller machines.

The teeth on a hacksaw blade are tiny, and their spacing referred to as pitch can range from 14 to 32 teeth per inch (TPI) on a regular hand blade. For larger, powered hacksaws, the blades might have as few as three teeth per inch.

The basic rule of thumb when picking a blade is to match it to the thickness of the material you’re cutting; you want at least three teeth in contact with the workpiece at all times for a smoother, more controlled cut.

Because the teeth are so fine, hacksaw blades use what’s known as a “wave set.” Unlike some other saws where the teeth alternate sharply left and right to make a wider cut (or kerf), hacksaw teeth gradually curve from side to side, creating a gentle wave pattern. This design helps prevent the blade from getting stuck and allows for a cleaner cut.

One thing to keep in mind is that hacksaw blades are generally quite brittle if you flex them too much, they can snap pretty easily. Originally, blades were made from carbon steel, often referred to as ‘low alloy’ today.

Those older blades were soft and flexible enough to avoid breaking but, as a trade-off, they tended to wear out quickly. These are mostly outdated now, except in the case of the Junior hacksaw, which still relies on low alloy blades due to their cost and compatibility.

Modern hacksaw blades have evolved quite a bit. For a while, manufacturers produced “all-hard” high speed steel blades that delivered precise cuts but were extremely brittle definitely not ideal if you weren’t working with a firmly clamped workpiece.

There were also softer high-speed steel blades, which were less likely to break and held up well over time, but they could flex more and weren’t as accurate.

The game-changer came in the 1980s with bi-metal blades. These combine a hard, high-speed steel edge (for the teeth) that’s welded to a more flexible, softer spine.

This gives you the best of both worlds: durability and toughness, without the risk of the blade snapping under stress. As the technology improved and costs dropped, bi-metal blades quickly became the standard choice for most users.

Most people use 12-inch (300 mm) blades, which are the most common size you’ll see in shops or toolboxes. Each blade has a hole at either end so it can be securely mounted in the hacksaw frame. When you hear “12-inch blade,” it refers to the distance between these mounting holes.

Lastly, the cut or kerf that the hacksaw makes is usually a bit wider than the blade itself, thanks to that wave set of the teeth. The width typically falls between 0.030 and 0.063 inches (about 0.75 to 1.6 mm), depending on how the teeth are arranged and how fine the pitch is.

Types of Hacksaw Blades

Following are the main types of hacksaw blades:

• Course Grade Hacksaw Blade
• Medium Grade Hacksaw Blade
• Fine Grade Hacksaw Blade
• Superfine Grade Hacksaw Blade
• Ail Hard Blade

1. Course Grade Hacksaw Blade

This particular grade of hacksaw blade is suitable for cutting materials such as mild steel, copper, aluminum, and brass. Typically, these blades have between 14 and 18 teeth per inch, making them versatile for working with various metals of moderate thickness.

2. Medium Grade Hacksaw Blade

This type of hacksaw blade is designed for versatility, making it suitable for cutting a wide range of metals including cast iron, tool steel, aluminum, brass, and high carbon steel, among others.

Typically, these blades feature between 20 and 24 teeth per inch, which allows for efficient and precise cutting across various materials.

3. Fine Grade Hacksaw Blade

This particular type of hacksaw blade is typically chosen for cutting materials like thin pipes, metal sheets, and small tubes. What sets it apart is its high tooth count, usually ranging from 24 to 30 teeth per inch. This fine-toothed design helps achieve cleaner, more precise cuts when working with thinner materials.

4. Superfine Grade Hacksaw Blade

When it comes to cutting exceptionally hard metals or even thin metal sheets, a specialized, thinner hacksaw blade is typically the tool of choice. These blades are characterized by having a high tooth density usually about 30 to 32 teeth (or “dents”) per inch which allows for precise and efficient cutting.

It’s also worth noting that, regardless of the grade, hacksaw blades often feature teeth cut along one or sometimes both edges. The hardening process for these blades isn’t one-size-fits-all; in fact, two different hardening methods are used, and the choice between them depends on the specific characteristics of the blade in question.

5. Ail Hard Blade

Typically, blades of this type undergo hardening and tempering processes, with the exception of the ends where holes are located. These specialized blades are designed primarily for cutting materials such as cast iron and malleable iron.

6. Flexible Blade

In blades of this type, only the cutting teeth and the area immediately surrounding them are subjected to hardening and tempering.

This selective treatment allows the blade to remain somewhat elastic, which significantly reduces the likelihood of breakage if the blade experiences sudden impact or shock.

Such blades are commonly utilized for cutting thin sheets, pipes, and for making curved cuts, among other similar applications.

How is a hacksaw used?

While hacksaws were first designed mainly for cutting metal, they’ve proven to be quite versatile in practice. People often use them to cut other materials too, including plastics and even wood on occasion. For instance, it’s not unusual to see plumbers or electricians reaching for a hacksaw when they need to slice through plastic piping or conduit during their work.

The basics of operating a hacksaw:

• Be sure that the blade is tightened and tensioned
• Mark the pipe or conduit at the appropriate length
• Line up the blade with the mark
• Draw the saw back and forth on the mark

Tips for using hacksaws

• Always put on suitable work gloves and safety glasses before you start. Protecting your hands and eyes is a basic precaution, but it’s easy to overlook when you’re in a hurry.
• Keep an eye out for burrs and sharp edges both during and after you’ve finished sawing. These can cause accidental cuts if you’re not careful, so it’s worth pausing to check as you go.
• Choose your hacksaw blade based on the specific type of metal you’re planning to cut. Not all blades are created equal—using the right one can make the job much smoother and help you avoid unnecessary frustration.
• When attaching the blade to the frame, make sure the teeth are positioned to cut when you push the saw forward. This little detail can make a big difference in how efficiently and safely you work.
• Secure your workpiece in the vice so the cutting lines are easy to see. Visibility is half the battle when it comes to accurate sawing.
• Before you start cutting, rest the blade on your marking line and use your left thumb as a steadying guide, just like in the diagrams. This helps you keep the blade on track and reduces the risk of it slipping off course.
• Once you’ve marked your line, grip the handle firmly with your right hand, using your palm and fingers. Use your left hand in the same way to hold the other end of the hacksaw frame—again, refer to the diagrams for clarity.
• Take a stable stance by standing to the left of the vice, keeping your right foot behind and your left foot slightly forward. This position gives you balance and control while you’re sawing.
• As you cut, make sure at least two of the blade’s teeth are always in contact with the metal. This helps prevent the blade from snagging or jumping.
• Aim to work at a pace of around 40 to 50 strokes per minute. It’s not about rushing—steady, consistent movement is much more effective.
• Apply pressure when pushing the saw forward, and ease up as you pull it back. This technique allows the blade to do its job efficiently without unnecessary wear.
• As you near the end of the cut, slow down your strokes. This makes it easier to finish cleanly without damaging either the blade or the material.

What are the Differences Types of Hacksaws?

• Blade Compatibility: Certain hacksaw models are designed to accommodate both 10-inch and 12-inch blades, offering users greater flexibility depending on the task at hand.
• Size Variations: For smaller or more delicate cutting jobs, you can also find hacksaws that take 6-inch blades.
• Handle Designs: The handles on hacksaws aren’t one-size-fits-all. They actually come in a variety of styles, so users can pick what feels most comfortable or ergonomic for their needs.
• Compact Options: If you’re after something really streamlined, there are compact or mini hacksaws available. These typically consist of little more than a handle and a blade—almost like using a sturdy knife.
• Tension Adjustments: The way a hacksaw holds its blade tight can differ quite a bit from one model to another. The tensioning mechanism is something to keep an eye on, especially if you’re particular about how taut you like your blade.
• Blade Pivot Feature: Some hacksaws allow you to pivot the blade to a 45-degree angle. This is especially handy when you need to make flush cuts in awkward spaces.

Precautions of Using Hacksaw

Following are the precautions of using hacksaw:

• When fitting a hacksaw blade to the frame, it’s important to strike a balance not too tight, not too loose. A properly secured blade is essential for both safety and effective cutting.
• If you’re securing the workpiece in a vice, avoid clamping it too high. Doing so can lead to unwanted vibrations while cutting, which can affect both accuracy and safety.
• For thin metal sheets, it’s a good idea to sandwich the material between pieces of wood, plastic, or another suitable support. Placing packing on both sides helps prevent the sheet from bending or rattling during the cut.
• Always keep an eye on the angle of the hacksaw blade. If it starts to tilt or become slanted, the risk of breaking the blade goes up significantly.
• If you notice the blade has started to cut at an angle, it’s best to begin a new cut rather than force the blade along the old, slanted path. Trying to correct a misaligned cut can often snap the blade.
• In the event that a blade breaks mid-job, it’s wiser to replace it with another blade that’s had about the same amount of use. Swapping in a brand-new blade into an old slot can increase the chances of it breaking as well.
• When necessary, don’t hesitate to use water or another suitable coolant. This helps keep both the blade and the workpiece from overheating.
• Once you’re done using the hacksaw, either remove the blade completely or loosen it before putting the tool away. This helps prolong the blade’s life and keeps everything in good working order.

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